Datsun Fairlady 280-ZX
A Dream in the Making
From the video games of childhood comes a project for a lifetime.
The Datsun / Nissan S130 chassis has proven to hold a wealth of potential for refining and building my skillset. View the challenges and solutions derived from bringing a 40-year-old car back onto the road as a daily driver with modern conviences.
Custom Fender Mirrors
This project is a set of powered vehicle fender mirrors, designed with inspiration from the sleek, classic aesthetics of the 1960s and 1970s. These decades were known for their distinct automotive styling, where form and function blended seamlessly into striking designs. I want to capture that same essence while integrating modern functionality through powered adjustability.
My vision was to create mirrors that hold the charm of vintage bullet-style fender mirrors, commonly found on classic European and Japanese sports cars. These mirrors, characterized by their rounded, streamlined housings and round glass lenses, contributed to the unmistakable look of cars from that era. Unlike modern side mirrors mounted on doors, fender mirrors provide a unique aesthetic and a different viewing angle, often improving visibility by reducing blind spots.
Rather than simply replicating these retro designs, I incorporated an organic flow in the structure—one where the mirror assembly appears to emerge seamlessly from the vehicle’s hood, forming a continuous, elegant curve into the mirror housing. This integration will give the mirrors a more intentional, sculpted look rather than appearing as a tacked-on accessory for my retromodded 1982 Datsun 280zx.
I felt very torn between two designs, one which more gradually arises from the hood with no frontal overhangs, and one that better pays homage to the fender mirror styling. To resolve this, I chose to take another side profile image of the car with greater context for the vehicle's lines. My resolution was to pursue the former.
The mirror's design prioritizes printability. It includes mounting posts for attaching a recycled power mirror regulator assembly and features a cable pass-through that integrates seamlessly with the assembly. The assembly itself is securely attached to the fender with a bolt hidden in the base, while the housing pivots on the base, secured by a concealed fastener
My design process started by taking side profile images of the vehicle I intended the mirrors to go on. I edited the background from the image and placed the vehicle on a blank white canvas to sketch on. I often find my greatest success when I can design within a greater context of the aesthetic. I created and iterated several profiles that matched my internal vision and consolidated the ideas that I liked most.
While working on modeling a mirror in Solidworks, I encountered a significant challenge: sizing the housing to fit the mirror glass appropriately. Initially, I was hesitant about using a 4" mirror, considering it too small for safety based on my experience with fixed mirrors. The recycled mirrors I found were primarily 4" acrylic, which easily scratches—particularly problematic for removing ice. Thus, I decided to order a 5" mirror and proceeded to model the housing in CAD. To visualize the fit, I edited the model onto an image of my car, using the current mirror for scale. The result seemed slightly large but acceptable. However, when I printed the prototype and tested it on the car, its size was comically large. Laughing at the mismatch, I resigned myself to using the 4-inch mirror, rationalizing that making it power adjustable and positioning it closer to the driver could compensate for its smaller size.
The final print came out rather well. There are still strongly visible seams that I wish I could have made more inconspicuous. I am however overjoyed with the final shape and styling of the mirror. My aesthetic goals have been met and exceeded as these mirrors stand as a massive improvement of my current fixtures.
Considering my functional goal, I also could not be happier. I will finally be able to remotely control my fender mirrors from the comfort and convenience of the driver's seat. They are capable of pivoting such that one design will be applicable to both sides of the vehicle, the original mounting solution is maintained such that I will not needlessly drill more holes in my car, and my safety will be preserved with the precise adjustability of the lenses.
Next for the fender mirrors is mounting them to my car and consolidating the electronics I used in development into a clean user interface. I think that there is opportunity for these mirrors to be used by others, there is a large following in this aesthetic, and I really believe that this design will make a big impact.
Anti-Theft Immobilization Circuit
The classic action scene of a criminal hotwiring a vehicle and getting away with the ride in a matter of minutes was a common threat to cars predating transponder keys. While the Datsun does have a steering wheel lock, it can be easily defeated, and with an aged ignition system, the car can be an easy target for thieves.
The Solution: A custom circuit that interrupts the signal from the vehicle’s computer to activate the fuel pump. Without the vehicle pumping fuel, the vehicle will never start, and any would-be thief would be left endless cranking the car over to no effect. While it would be easy to wire a simple hidden switch to interrupt this signal, the operator must remember to re-arm the system before departing the vehicle.
I wanted to find a switch that would turn itself off if power was ever lost, effectively arming the interrupt. Switches like this do exist; they are commonplace on table saws or other power equipment that would prove to be a safety hazard if they turned on by their own accord following a loss of power. The issue with these switches, called No Voltage Release switches, is that they are rated for much higher voltages than would be expected in my circuit, meaning they would not reliably detect the loss of power.
My circuit operates on the ability for a relay to effectively power its own conductor, keeping the internal contacts closed. Once power is lost, the relay defaults to being open again, interrupting the critical fuel pump signal without any action by the operator.
A Hand Drawn Diagram of the Circuit
Breadboarded Example of the Circuit Proving the Concept
The full Circuit Laid out in Altium
Custom Footprint Made for the Automotive Relay I Own
Full PCB Created In Altium
Rear Suspension Adjustment
Rolling out of the factory, the S130 came with non-adjustable rear trailing arm suspension. Due to an apparent collision with a curb, my 280zx was plagued with uncorrectable toe in on the rear driver’s side. I sought to remedy this issue that was bound to create poor tire ware.
A common modification to these cars is to simply slot out the trailing arm mounts on the rear subframe, while this is a solution, it lacks the elegance and security of an engineered solution.
I designed slotted brackets and eccentric washers to weld onto the rear suspension, allowing for fine adjustment via the eccentric washers and further travel to remedy the high toe in associated with my car.
Full Vehicle Respray
When I first purchased my vehicle, I harbored a dream of owning a deep cherry red sports car. However, it quickly became apparent that the existing paint was severely sun-damaged, with rust spots beginning to emerge. Recognizing the need to act swiftly, I decided to undertake a respray to preserve the car's condition for the future.
Inspiration struck when I encountered the stunning Mazda Soul Red Crystal paint. Despite its appeal, the cost of the authentic paint was prohibitive. Instead, I opted for a candy paint solution, which involves applying a base color topped with a semi-transparent, tinted paint to achieve rich depth and luster. I chose a black base beneath a bright red candy coat to emulate the iconic Mazda color.
The preparation process was extensive. We began by removing all trim components and glass, except for the windshield and rear glass. The car was stripped to bare metal using a combination of abrasives and chemical solvents. I found that the solvents were unable to penetrate through the factory clear coat, so abrasives were used to remove as much of the top layer as possible. I also welded shut the holes for the door mirrors and antenna as I chose not to run an FM radio and preferred the aesthetics of fender mirrors. I uncovered and later addressed body damage with body filler.
A self-etching primer was applied first, followed by several layers of high-build primer. These layers were meticulously sanded down to ensure the panels were perfectly smooth. After three weeks of diligent preparation, which included several days devoted to masking off the engine bay and interior, the car was ready for painting. The painting process started with the door jambs, undersides of the fenders, doors, hood, and hatch. Once these parts were painted and had cured, we reassembled the car.
The exterior painting then commenced with two layers of black, followed by four layers of candy paint, and concluded with two layers of clear coat. Throughout this process, I was fortunate to have the guidance of my father, who owns a painting company and has extensive experience with spray painting machinery. His expertise was invaluable, ensuring a finish that far exceeded my expectations.
Throughout this project, I gained invaluable insights, but the most profound lessons were about patience and the importance of thorough preparation. The extensive and meticulous sanding sessions, often stretching into the early hours, not only shaped the car but also offered me a unique opportunity for introspection.
During those countless nights, as I labored over every inch of the vehicle's surface, I came to appreciate the profound connection between meticulous attention to detail and achieving excellence. This process wasn't just about transforming a car; it was a transformative journey for me as well. I developed a deeper mental resilience and a more spiritual outlook on both my craft and life itself.
I emerged from this experience with a reinforced belief in the value of perseverance and the importance of a well-considered approach. These lessons have reshaped my approach to challenges, encouraging a more thoughtful and patient demeanor. This project was not only a labor of love but a pivotal chapter in my personal growth.
Paint Removal
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Sealing the Solvent
To keep the solvent active, we retained moisture by wrapping the entire vehicle in plastic masking after applying thick layers of gel paint dissolver to every square inch of the vehicle
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Slow Progress
Modern paint strippers are engineered to be more environmentally and user friendly at the expense of being less expensive. Over the course of the stripping process, we applied stripper across the entire vehicle four times
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Paint Bubbles
We had experimented with several different paint strippers until we found a product capable of fully lifting the paint from the metal, whereas other products would only soften the paint enough to be mechanically removed by a scraper
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Hidden Damage
Much to my surprise, I found a rather large section of the car with deep dents covered in Bondo. It looked as though someone had thrown a billiards ball at this corner a dozen times. I’m still not sure what could have happened here?
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My new DeLorean
After two weeks of applying solvent and sanding, we had the vehicle down to bare metal and were ready to move on to the next step!
The Details
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Blowing it Apart
The next step was to completely disassemble everything, remove all of the remaining paint that was hidden away in the last step, and begin meticulously sanding and degreasing the metal to get it ready for paint
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Self-Etching Primer
To ensure a positive bond between the paint and the metal, a self-etching primer was applied to chemically affix itself to the metal and provide a strong foundation for later layers. These primer layers also served for great practice with unfamiliar equipment and identifying odd angles.
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High Build Primer
The entire car was coated with four layers of high build primer. These thick layers allowed me to use long and wide block sanders to identify low and high spots in the paint, creating perfectly smooth panels.
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Two Steps Back
The sanding process was remarkable tedious, as every stroke of the sanding block was paramount to the project’s success and could not be rushed. This process was also remarkable in the mess that it had made. My fabricated paint booth had to be completely replaced, and the entire car needed to be degreased again before painting.
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First Color
In a single day, all of the jambs, wheel arches, and undersides of panels were finally painted. It was the first time we had gotten to see the color, and the excitement that filled my body gave me the motivation I needed to see this project through.
The Culmination
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Return to Form?
The first step of the final push was to recoat the entire exterior in a thinned-out primer: a glaze coat.
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Paint It, Black
I think I could have been happy at this stage. The car was well restored, and back to its original color. Sleek and elegant, it was almost hard not calling it a day here.
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How did we get here?
As I was mixing the first cup of candy paint, anxiety washed over me. The tension in the air was so thick you could cut it. The last several weeks of effort all hinged on the very next moments. There are so many variables at play when spraying candy that it is hard to predict the outcome.
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Resolve
Four coats of candy paint fell onto the car in perfection, two layers of clear coat marked the end of the project. The vibrance of the paint was genuinely captivating. It felt unreal that the car in front of me was mine. The joy of completing such a big project was euphoric, and the fact that I got to do it all with my dad cements these weeks as a core memory that I will cherish forever.
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Together Again
To this day there are still many things that I would like to improve in the paint work, but I am forever grateful for the journey that brought me here.
